The Power of Style: How Fashion and Beauty Are Being Used to Reclaim Cultures

Christian Allaire, an Indigenous (Ojibwe) man grew up on the Nipissing First Nation reservation in northern Ontario. Being surrounded by a culture that he did not see reflected in any kind of media or pop culture made him feel different and affected his self-esteem. The Power of Style: How Fashion and Beauty Are Being Used to Reclaim Cultures offered him a chance to discuss how he was not alone and to show how things have changed in that cultures from around the world may be seen in magazines and on large and small screens.

The book’s six different sections begin with ‘Sewing Tradition’ in which Allaire explains a historic and culturally significant Indigenous craft. Ribbon work is the application of ribbons to garments in which the colour and placement are frequently significant to the wearer. Allaire’s explanation about getting his first ribbon shirt, along with how and why he chose the colours used on it, helps the reader to understand not only its importance to him but the tradition, itself. The section highlights several different artists, showing how the craft is being used in different ways, from being adapted by fashion forward artists, to displaying an artist that makes ceremonial pieces, all of whom help to keep and make it a dynamic and popular fashion trend.
Allaire then moves on to look at how hair, beyond a basic hairstyle, can have meaning, stating specifically that “Natural hair is exactly what it sounds like: hair that is natural. In the Black community, wearing one’s hair naturally is a power move.” He then presents questions with Modupe Oluruntoba, a South African writer/editor about the years of ambivalent feelings she had before coming to terms with her hair and its maintenance. These feelings are reflected by others, including Indigenous model Haatepah Clearbear. Different hairstyles and how they can reflect upon the wearer are demonstrated by diverse means, from a sidebar demonstrating how drag queens demonstrate their creativity to a deeper dive into the art of braiding.

Allaire uses the next segment, ‘Level Up,’ to demonstrate just how far popular culture has come in breaking from standard norms. He does this by introducing readers to some unexpected cosplay players who manage take advantage of their own identities, integrating them into their characters. This can be enjoyed even by readers who are unfamiliar with cosplay, by showing them players whose characters fall outside the standard realm of very thin, generally white or Asian, and usually the same gender as their character.

‘Head Strong’ is a tribute to the hijab, showing how Muslim women are wearing this covering with pride, in ways that conform and embrace, while allowing it to work for girls of all sizes and races. Designer Melanie Elturk and plus-size model and influencer Leah Vernon both provide examples of how head scarves are part of their fashion style before they show how widespread it has become, with its turning up on the runway and in major sports. Examples are provided of traditional headpieces from other cultures, including a Korean ayam and a Jamaican rastacap.

‘Standing Tall’ will remind any reader who is unfamiliar with just how prevalent high heels are as a form of footwear across genders that this form of footwear originated for men. This section includes a history of heels, how to walk in them, along with an introduction to a couple of today’s best-known designers of men’s heels and to a star of the fashion world and Kinky Boots, Billy Porter. Anyone new to wearing high heels will find a short beginner’s guide.

Allaire concludes with ‘Mighty Makeup’, a look at the wide variations of what beauty is and how makeup can be incorporated. Cultural examples here include the use of henna, a discussion with Nyma Tang who created a YouTube channel over the “lack of inclusivity in the beauty industry” and an inability to find shades for darker complexions, and Indigenous makeup artist Jennifer Bear Medicine who uses her clients as her canvases.

It is to be hoped that a book about fashion and style will attract readers interested in either and will be able to offer examples of each. The Power of Style does that well with each page featuring at least one colourful photograph and several pages consisting of full-page spreads that not only add to and highlight the contents but will, on their own, also entice readers. Adding to this attraction is a readable text, broken into short segments, that provides information without becoming a lengthy narrative.

The format of The Power of Style, by providing an overall subject along with designers and influencers in each category, will allow the book to appeal to a wide age range. It is important that readers of all ages be given the opportunity to learn that there are others who have had the same or similar experiences of feeling that they were different from their peers because of the way that they looked or dressed.